The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.

An unexpected discovery during a tube journey in 1988 altered the course of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's buzzing 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.

"That era was the peak of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that rawness."

If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is not the only one. In recent times, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However since that time, Enninful feels a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "It’s not even this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Cultural Backslide

This change is hard to ignore: the growth of far-right politics, the reaction against social awareness, and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the hope of the Blair era, currently a more divisive political personality stands as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again.

In Enninful's view, the solution has always been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the core philosophy behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, including a diverse array of prominent faces from literature.

"Those in a position of influence should wield it," he says, referring to those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain was not a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this period will fade."

Hope in the Next Generation

He finds hope in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I had no concept what that was."

The beginnings of his career would define a pioneering career built on boldness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His tenure featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Significantly, sales grew.

"When you ignore vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s commercially unwise," he explains.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has established his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since leaving his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".

"I constantly interrogate the conventional wisdom. I was raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … this duality gave me a dual identity between worlds."

Defying the popular image of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His journey has not been immune to challenges, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also faced serious health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to do everything that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to fit into a box has inspired him outside the industry that established him. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a host of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"The establishment often failed to celebrate the most relevant talents because they did not have the right pedigree," he states.

This venture itself operates on a novel approach, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we do together? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is part of a broader vision."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful operates as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he feels, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward think of the man he has become? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. At that time I was anti-establishment. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He reflects. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."